This is a pretty unremitting stretch with the steepest climb coming directly out of Nenthead, so if you are staying overnight avoid one of those typically generous and massive Cumbrian breakfasts.

Turn left off the A689 after just over a kilometre of hellish gradient, past the disused lead mineshafts, and soon you will be crossing the highest point on the route - Black Hill. At 609 metres (just a tad under 2000 feet) it is 29 metres (nearly 100 feet) higher than Hartside. Once you have conquered the climb up past Killhope Law it's pretty plane sailing down to Allenheads.

This is a truly delightful village nestling amongst the trees. Its focal point is a marvellous little pub called the Allenheads Inn where a cornucopia of fascinating nick knacks are suspended from ceilings and walls, doors and passageways.

A century ago this prosperous and peaceful little haven was a toneless grey valley of slag heaps shrouded by smog, for it too was a mining community which provided one sixth of the nation's requirement for lead. The village slipped into decline when the bottom fell out of the industry but has done amazingly well in recent years to revitalise itself. There is now a Trust, a visitor centre plus mining exhibitions and a shop and café.

This is the home of the British Norwegian Ski Club. There are three tow ropes taking you to the top of the run at 540 metres. Annual family membership is £30, which covers towing, hire of the rope and passes; facilities on the piste also include a small bait hut where there is a BYO glühwein facility.

Apres ski is in the pub. An ideal place for celebrities, it is usually free of paparazzi and gossip columnists. A popular haunt with the beau monde of Carlisle and Newcastle, Allenheads is once again a coming place.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Woodland Nature Trail - walks that take you around the village.

Old Blacksmith's Shop - smithy with display.

The Allenheads Trust, Allenheads Heritage Centre, T/F: 01434 685043