You are now in the Eastern Fells of the Lake District National Park. This agreeable wilderness in a miraculously untouched corner of England and proved a magnet for St Mungo in the 6th century. He had heard that the unruly folk here knew nothing of the Gospels, so he duly came and conquered. Many of the local churches are named atter his other, formal name: Kentigern.

HESKET NEWMARKET

Ask a local inhabitant the name of an ash tree and he will tell you it is a `hesh'. Hesket means the place of the ash tree. Local farmers bought and sold bulls at the market cross. A pleasant village green invites travellers to rest awhile. Here you can see the Medieval stone stall where for centuries (until the late 1900s) bulls were tethered and in and around which a cattle market was held. There is a well stocked village shop, a post office, pub and a couple of guest-houses.

The Old Crown Inn serves ales brewed behind the premises, and the Hesket Newmarket microbrewery is fast gaining a reputation for some very fine produce. Supply is limited, so sup and enjoy. This really is a perfect, unspoilt little village on the edge of some pretty wild paradise.

You are about to tackle the toughest bit of the ride with some challenging up-and-down and some majestic views. To the south west you will see the Lake District opening up, with great views of Skiddaw and the Uldale Fells.