Sandwiched between Derwentwater, Blencathra and Skiddaw at the entrance to the mighty Borrowdale valley, this market town is blessed with one of Britain's most idyllic settings. Ideal for cycling, walking, boating or just sightseeing, it is a favourite venue with cycle back-up teams; it is the most popular and best-equipped stop-off point on the route.

Keswick ('Cese-Wic' - the Cheese Town, literally) became prosperous in the 17th century during the reign of Elizabeth I, thanks to the mining of copper, lead, silver and iron. To run them, engineers had to be imported from Germany. Despite a rocky start - local xenophobia drove them to inhabit Derwent Island - they soon managed to integrate; evidence of this can be found in the phone book today; there are many Germanic surnames.

The town's famous Cumberland Pencil Company came about after the discovery of graphite in Borrowdale in the 16th century. However, the town was granted its charter some 300 years before that by Edward I in 1276. Visitors started to flock in during the 18th century and Victorian times many of them were literary pilgrims, attracted by the association with such Romantic poets as Southey, Coleridge and Wordsworth. John Ruskin, the aesthete and champion of the Pre-Raphaelites, had close associations with the town.

The population of the place has grown little in the past century. In 1902 there were 4,500 people; now there are just 500 more, but many of them - as you will note if you choose to stop over - are B&B; owners. The place also has many good pubs and solid restaurants.

PLACES OF INTEREST

The Cumberland Pencil Museum, West of the town centre 017687 73626

Cars of the Stars, this is a pre-Carbon Footprint establishment. Famous cars including a James Bondmobile, the Batmobile and Chitty Chitty Bang Bang 017687 73757

The Keswick Launch Company, tours on the lake, on the shore of Derwentwater 017687 72263.

George Fisher, big stock of outdoor gear, books and maps. Borrowdale Rd 017687 72178

Cotswold Outdoor Ltd, as above 017687 81939

The Moot Hall, Tourist Information Centre 017687 72645

Theatre by the Lake, Lakeside. Open all year round. Restaurant. Beautiful setting. 017687 74411

Alhambra Cinema, St.Johns St 017687 72195

Castlerigg Stone Circle, thought to date from 3000 B.C. Steep climb out of town on the alternative Penrith Rd route. Worth detour.

Keswick Museum & Art Gallery, interesting and eclectic collection 017687 72263

CYCLE SHOPS/ REPAIRSChris Warren, Kinniside, Portinscale 01768 72415

Keswick Mountain Bike Centre, Unit 1,Daleston Ct Daleston Court,Southey Hill Industrial Estate, Keswick. 017687 75202

Keswick Riding and Cycle Hire Centre, cycle hire plus minor spares and repairs.

KESWICK YHA, Anne Howarth. This upmarket hostel charges £19 a night and serves breakfast 'a la carte'. Hugely refurbished in 2006. 017687 72484.

WHERE TO EAT

Lemon & Lime, 31 Lake Road, international cuisine with tapas, pizzas and other family favourites: 017687 73088

Salsa Mexican Bistro, 1 New Street, spicey and popular medium priced establishment owned by the Nellist brothers: 017687 75222

Red Fort Indian Restaurant, 5 St John Street, lively and reliable spot very popular with the locals: 017687 74328

Swinside Inn, Newlands, Keswick 017687 78253

Luca's Ristorante, High Hill, Greta Bridge, family run Italian with elaborate decorations and prices to match: 017687 74621

Maysons Restaurant and Cafe, 33, Lake Road, Keswick, simple and unpretentious eaterie. Good value: 017687 74104

The Bank Tavern, 47 Main St, solid, handsome pub with good, traditional English cooking. Mediu price. Outside eating area: 017687 72663.

George Hotel, 3 St John St, medium priced fare: 017687 75751

There are two ways out of town. The most popular - and far the easier - is the one which follows the old Keswick-Penrith railway line and the river Greta as far as Threlkeld. It is a beautiful and leafy stretch. You get to it down Station Rd and Brundholme Rd, bearing lett at the swimming pool and heading in front of the old station. Both routes assume the same start, unless you want to go out of Keswick along the old Penrith road.

A) The hard one. If you're feeling energetic and are (seriously) fit, then you'll prefer the Old Coach Road. It branches off the railway route on the edge of town, just before the track goes under the A66 viaduct. It then heads seriously steeply up to the 3,000 year old Castlerigg Stone Circle.

At this point you can come down and rejoin the more sedate option via Threlkeld and Mungrisdale, or you can press on through St John's in the Vale, Matterdale End and down to Greystoke via Hutton John. The Coach Road (what coach could possibly have tackled this?) is a seriously rough off-road alternative that is very exposed. Check the weather before tackling it and don't do it if you're not certain of your capabilities. There is accommodation where the route crosses the A5091 at Matterdale (see TROUTBECK, and further along, just off the A66, PENRUDDOCK & MOTHERBY) before the route rejoins the easier alternative at GREYSTOKE.

B) The not so hard one. This takes you fairly effortlessly the five kilometres or so to Threlkeld, though you can make it slightly tougher by taking in the Castlerigg Stone Circle detour at the start of the alternative (see above) before heading back onto the easy lower road.