On leaving Newton Rigg campus go underneath the M6 and turn right at the T-junction, going into town along Robinson Street, across Scotland Rd and into Drover's Lane. The route is well sign-posted. You know you are on the right tracks when you find yourself exiting Penrith up Fell Lane - a steep climb to a T-junction at the top.

A handsome red sandstone market town, Penrith was the capital of the Kingdom of Cumbria in the 9th and 10th centuries at a time when the area was allied to Scotland. Semi-independent, it was also part of the Kingdom of Scotland Strathclyde and was historically always on the main north-south road between England and Scotland. Much bloody action was witnessed during the border conflicts; indeed the Scots, envious of its prosperity, put the town to torch three times during the 14th century.

Until the end of the 14th century Penrith had no water supply. But in 1385 Bishop Strickland diverted Thacka Beck from the river Peterill, and an eco-sensitive agreement allowed the townspeople to draw daily only as much water from the Peterill as would flow through the eye of a millstone. You can see the millstone outside the Tourist Information Centre.

By the 18th century it was an important cattle market and the oldest streets in the town Burrowgate and Sandgate - are narrow, unspoilt and 800 years old. The Gloucester Arms pub is thought to date from 1477 and is supposed to have been Richard III's favourite hostelry. The Two Lions is equally historic while the George Hotel provided lodgings for Bonnie Prince Charlie in 1745 when on his ill-fated foray south in search of the crown.

Other famous names associated with the town include Mary Queen of Scots, Oliver Cromwell and the writer, Anthony Trollope. The former must have spent most of her life on horseback in order to get to the places she is alleged to have visited and stayed at, though in the case of Penrith, the connection is entirely justified. Oliver Cromwell, meanwhile, occupied the town in 1654. Whilst the pen may be mightier than the sword, Trollope is not thought to have caused much bloodshed here.

Two old-fashioned shops have survived, as if preserved in aspic: Graham's, Penrith's answer to Fortnum & Mason; and Arnisons, the drapers, established in 1740 and once the home of Wordsworth's grandparents. The poet and his sister Dorothy attended the Dame Anne Birkett School, now the Tudor Coffee Room, overlooking St Andrew's Churchyard and final resting place of a legendary giant and King of All Cumbria.

Penrith Castle, a splendidly ruined sandstone edifice in the public park, dates from the 14th century, built onto an existing pele tower. In 1471 it became a royal fortress for the Duke of Gloucester (later Richard III) who was `Guardian of the West March towards Scotland.'

Legend has it that a passageway existed to the Gloucester Arms, for His Majesty's safe passage to a tap room. Much of the stonework from the castle - by the mid-1500s, a ruin - has become incorporated in the town's buildings, just as much of the fabric of Hadrian's Wall has metamorphosed into smallholdings, churches and houses in much of the surrounding countryside.

Above Penrith is Beacon Hill, past which you will shortly be cycling. Beacons have been lit there through the ages to warn of threat of invasion. It offers some of the most stunning views across the Eden Valley to the Pennines.

In more recent times the area was immortalised in Bruce Robinson's classic film comedy of 1987, `Withnail and I', in which the area is once again traumatised - this time by a pair of drunken wannabe actors from London.

The Penrith Museum and Tourist Information Centre are housed in the former Robinson's School, an Elizabethan building which was altered in 1670 and used as a school until the early 1970's. The recently refurbished museum covers the history, geology and archaeology of the Penrith area. Free. 01786 867466

St Andrew's Church : The Giant's Grave in the Churchyard:

legendary slayer of monsters from Inglewood Forest.

Bluebell Bookshop , Angel Sq 01768 866660.

Castle ruins

The town's architecture - take a walk around. Well worth a stopover.

EATING OUT

Fifteen, 15 Victoria Road, welcome addition to the Penrith food scene. Laid back atmosphere. Food is fresh and simple yet inventive. Healthy options and some fine cake. Cycle enthusiasts. 01768 867453

Bewicks Coffee Shop & Bistro, Princes Court, accomplished and simple; lovely setting, reasonable prices: 01768 864764

Taste of Bengal, Stricklandgate, solid and unpretentious dishes from a place without pretentions: 01768 891700

George Hotel, Devonshire St, does everything from lounge snacks to formal restaurant. Reliable and reasonable: 01768 862696

Peaberrys Restaurant & Cafe, Angel Sq, smart in-and-out eaterie, reasonable prices: 01768 890170

Platinum Chinese Restaurant, buffet more than adequate - some rave reports from other diners: 01768 210210

Blue Elephant Café, Angel Sq, vegetarian organic retreat upstairs from the Bluebell Bookshop. New cafe owner: 01768 866660.

Scotts Fish Restaurant, Sandgate, 53-seat no-nonsense chippie next to the bus station: 01768 890838.

CYCLE SHOPS

Arragons, Brunswick Road. 01768 890 344. http://www.arragonscycles.com

Harpers Cycles, 1-2 Middlegate 01768 864 475