Whitehaven has the distinction of being the official starting point of the C2C and the finish for the Reivers Cycle Route, though there is now stiff competition from St Bees/Egremont, where the famous Wainwright walk starts from. Whitehave may not be quite the place it was in the 18th century, when it played a significant role in the British slave industry and was the main importer of tobacco on the west coast. Nonetheless it has undergone a major transformation in the last couple of years, its fine Georgian architecture now looking spruce and proud.

Perhaps the most impressive feature is the large harbour, which has undergone a £68 million facelift. There is a fine 100-berth marina, now choc-a-bloc with pleasure craft of all sizes and shapes. The town has, in short, reacquired some of the prosperity it lost in the years after it became the world's first new town.

Not so long ago it would have been hard to imagine that early Manhattan's street grid system was based on the pattern the Lowther family laid out for Whitehaven in the late 1690s, when it became apparent that the Cumbrian settlement was destined for great things.

Shortly afterwards the streets filled with rum and sugar merchants, slave traders and tobacco speculators and America-bound settlers waiting for their boat to come in. The harbour was teeming with coal transporters, which plied the Irish Sea to supply Dublin's houses and industries with black stuff dynamited from under Whitehaven's seabed. There was also shipbuilding; over 1,000 vessels were built in the Whitehaven yards, and one of the oldest surviving iron-built ships was constructed here. After London and Bristol, this was the busiest port in England.

Whitehaven is the most popular starting point for the C2C and many people start the route on a Thursday, aiming to complete it over a long weekend. This is leading to accommodation difficulties in Whitehaven so it is recommended - if you can - start on another day or perhaps consider St Bees & Egremont as an alternative if everything is booked up.

WHERE TO EAT

The Lime Lounge - 9 Marlborough Street - 0871 5297853

Zest Harbourside: Harbourside - 01946 66981

Georgian House - Church Street - 01946 696611

Casa Romana [Italian] - Queen Street - 01946 591901

Jasmine Palace, [Chinese/Thai] Duke/Strand Street - 0871 5297754

Blue Wine Bar & Restaurant - Tangier Street - 01946 691986

Westminster Restaurant - Lowther Street - 01946 694404

Askash Tandoori Restaurant [Indian] - 01946 691171

Ali Taj Restaurant [Indian], 34/35 Tangier St - 01946 592679

China Palace [Chinese] - George Street - 01946 693388

Howgate Brewster & Travel Inn - Howgate - 01946 66286

PLACES OF INTEREST

Michael Moon's, Bookshop & Gallery, Roper St. One of the largest bookshops in Cumbria, "vast and gloriously eccentric!"

The Beacon: Local maritime and industrial history within the Harbour Gallery. 01946 592302.

The Rum Story, exhibition celebrating the Jefferson family business, the oldest booze empire in Britain.

The Haig Mining Museum, Haig Enterprise Park, High Rd.

CYCLE SHOPS

Haven Cycles: Cycle Hire/Repairs, Preston St Garage 01946 632 633

Dave Milling, Preston St. 01946 63380

Connections with America went deep: John Paul Jones, founder of the American navy and erstwhile scourge of Britain's own, gained his sea legs as a merchant seaman from Whitehaven. Indeed, the last invasion of the English mainland, in 1778, was perpetrated by Jones upon the town. The incursion was part of the only ever attack on British soil by US forces; and we should not forget that George Washington's granny, Mildred Warner Gale, lived here and is buried at St Nicholas's churchyard.

The town has been impressively preserved, one suspects, because a sudden lack of prosperity atter the boom years disinclined planners from bulldozing in the name of progress. This lett the Lowther architectural heritage preserved, as it were, in aspic. It is worthwhile walking the streets, admiring this memorial to an earlier and prosperous age, when sea captains and merchants lived in style.

There are many interesting and quirky sculptures around the harbour, street mosaics featuring different aspects of the heritage, plus a mural in Washington Square and a plethora of shiny plaques above doorways giving a clue to the past.

It is one of my favourite places on the whole route and it seems a shame just to use Whitehaven as a point of departure without spending the previous night exploring. There are plenty of distractions, in the form of pubs, restaurants and venues. The following day's ride out of this port is nothing if not leisurely - a stark contrast to the undulations that are to follow. A late night is not going to spoil it.

The traditional way to start this route is by christening your bike on the slipway behind the big C2C sign by dipping the front wheel in the briny. Then you might wish to get your first route stamp at the New Espresso café in the Market Place.

Off-roading in the mountains

Whitehaven is also aperfect gateway to theWestern Lakes. Perhaps you should consider exploring the day before as there is a spectacular off-road Eskdaletrail to Ravenglassthat follows the River Eskthrough stunning LakeDistrict scenery that veryfew visitors to the "honeypot"areas can even dream about. You take the train (or drive) from Corkickle toRavenglass on the picturesqueCumbrian West Coast line (although thisdoes not operate on Sundaysand bikes are limitedto two per journey). Havingbooked your bikes onLa'al Ratty by phone on01229 717171 (giving 24hours notice) load yourbikes onto the speciallyconverted carriages.Travel the seven miles from the coast tothe foothills of England'shighest mountain on what is arguably England'smost beautiful railjourney: to Dalegarth stationnear the village ofBoot. You can walk to StanleyGhyll Force (about 40minutes) or even toScafell, the second highestmountain in England,along one of the quietestand most exquisitelybeautiful routes. There are refreshmentsat Dalegarth at the new visitorcentre or excellent Lakelandpubs at Boot before cycling back.

THE ROUTE

As you leave Whitehaven harbour you will join the Whitehaven-Rowrah cycle path which links the sea to the fells. But first some detailed instructions for getting onto the route proper: out of the harbour head right up Quay St, then lett past the Tourist Information Centre through Market Place and into Preston St. Look out for signs off to the lett for the path which goes behind Focus DIY and then onto Esk Avenue, only to rejoin the path by the school. You then cycle along Croasdale Av and Wasdale Av before linking up with the path to exit the town.

You now follow the railway line built in the 1850s to carry limestone, coal and iron; it is now a sculpture trail interpreting the geology and industrial history of the region. You might find yourself stopping to check signage; this is fairly routine, as there are several other routes around here.

The rail line goes as far as Rowrah in the direction of Kirkland. Just beyond Rowrah turn lett onto the lane and right at the school. You will soon pass Felldyke and, following signs for Loweswater, Lamplugh.

In about 5km you will be skirting Loweswater, your first glimpse of the Lakes and a wonderful spot to take pictures or stop for a snack. Beyond the lake is the picturesque village of Loweswater, complete with church and village inn; a delightful place to stop if you're really taking your time, or are on foot.

From Loweswater continue up the lane through Thackthwaite and soon you will cross the River Cocker at Low Lorton, passing through Lorton Vale and into High Lorton. This is a truly picturesque Northern Lakes village to spend a night.